General
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1. Is it true that Phantom karts are designed for hard, fast tracks but that they’re not as good on lower grip tracks?
No, this is not true at all. In fact, Phantom chassis are just as competitive on lower grip race tracks as they are on high bite race tracks. Keep in mind that when you go from a track with a lot of bite to a track with low bite, you may need to alter your setup and tire program a small amount.
2. I’ve heard that karts of certain colors are better/worse than others due to the painting process. Is this true?
There is no truth to the rumor that some karts with certain colors perform better or worse than others – they are all the same underneath the powder coating. All of our chassis are powder coated using the same process. Each chassis is prepared, sprayed, and baked in the same manner. However, we do NOT recommend two stage powder coating processes such as fluorescent or candy colors.
3. I believe my chassis may be bent. Can Phantom check to make sure?
Yes, we would be more than happy to check your chassis to see whether or not it is bent. The chassis will have to be stripped down to a bare frame in order for us to check it. There is no charge for checking the chassis. Just give us a heads up before you come!
4. If my chassis is bent, can Phantom straighten it?
Unfortunately, we will not straighten any chassis that has been bent. After a chassis has been bent, it will lose both strength and integrity. Even after a chassis is straightened, it will not perform in the manner in which it did originally. The final reason why we do not straighten a chassis that has been bent is due to safety. A chassis will be much weaker after it has been bent and repaired than it was originally.
Steering
1. The single steering upright in my chassis is loose where it mounts to the frame. I have the mounting bolt very tight and it is still loose. What is wrong? Nemesis, Phenom, ICON, and Seraph chassis-specific
Detailed information about this problem is found in your owners’ manual in section 3.1, but the problem is most likely the fact that you have the socket head cap screw (SHCS) positioned the wrong way. The frame is designed so the head of the SHCS to go through the frame and pinches the upright tube to the opposite side. Chances are you have this bolt backwards or you have the flat washer under the head of the SHCS instead of the nut, which prevents it from working properly.
2. Which tie rod goes on the top when mounted to the steering shaft?
The most important thing to keep in mind when working with tie rods is they should be as level as possible. Mounting the tie rods at a severe angle will cause the steering to work incorrectly. When mounting the tie rods to the Pittman arm on the steering shaft, place the left tie rod on top with the right tie rod underneath. Be sure to place one washer between the Pittman arm and tie rod end on the top and the bottom and place no washers in between the tie rod ends.
3. Should the tie rods be mounted on the top or bottom of the spindle arm?
Keep in mind that you want the tie rods to be as level as possible. Mount the left side tie rod under the left front spindle arm and the right side tie rod mounted on top of the right side spindle arm.
4. How tight are you supposed to tighten the axle nuts on the spindles?
The axle nuts on the end of each spindle do not need to be excessively tight. The best habit to get in to is to simply turn the nut onto the spindle until it just touches the spacer. You should then turn the nut 1/6-turn either way in order to place the clevis pin. Be sure that the hub does not move from side to side on the spindle shaft. If it does, you will need to tighten the nut more. However, you do not want to tighten the nut too tight or the hub will not be able to spin freely.
5. How should I align the front end?
Setting the alignment on the chassis is very important to its performance. First, set the Pittman arm so that it’s centered and straight. Next, adjust the steering lock so that you can place the pin into the center hole. Once adjusted, tighten the steering lock in place and there should be no further adjustment to this after this point. Next, square the left side. This simply means the left rear and left front are in perfect alignment with each other. To set the right side alignment, simply loosen the right side tie rod only and adjust it until it is square. Then, lock down the right side tie rod using the jam nuts. Next, set the toe out on the right side of the chassis. Generally, 1/16” or 1/8” is all you will want to use. To adjust the right side alignment, loosen the jam nuts on the left side tie rod and adjust it. Be sure you lock the jam nuts down after you have set toe. Ensure when the jam nuts are locked on either end of the tie rod that the tie rod has full rotation back and forth. If the tie rods don’t fully rotate after being tightened down, the steering will bind. Adjust the jam nuts until the tie rod has full rotation.
Rear Axle
1. What side of the axle should I lock down?
Phantom recommends that both the LR and the RR be locked down. This may be done using a locking collar on either side of the bearing, drilling a hole through the axle (PRC axles are pre-drilled) and running a pin through the hole in the inner race of the bearing through the hole or by tightening down the two set screws on each bearing. If the pin method is used, it should only be used on one side (brake side) and one of the other two methods should be used on the other. Not locking both sides down can yield brake and sprocket misalignment as well as preventing the kart from transferring weight as it was designed to do.
2. What is the advantage to running the PRC Floating Gear Hub?
The PRC Floating Gear Hub is designed to reduce the amount of tension placed on your chain when under racing conditions. This tension is caused by the chassis’ ability to flex and transfer weight when cornering. When using the standard type of rear gear hub, the amount of tension on the chain will increase as the chassis flexes. As this tension increases on the chain, it can often become tight and even bind up. The PRC Floating Gear Hub allows for enough movement of the sprocket hub to keep the chain both in line with the clutch as well as free from any excessive tension.
3. Is there any advantage to using a titanium rear axle?
Phantom Racing Chassis tests and develops each of its chassis’ using the axles that we produce in house. We do not do any testing in terms of aluminum, titanium, or carbon fiber axles. Being as this is the case, we cannot accurately advise on the disadvantages or advantages of running a titanium axle.
4. Are Ceramic Bearings really worth it?
Amongst all the hype and all the critics, here is the truth about ceramic bearings…ceramic bearings do provide many benefits over the standard steel bearing. First, the ceramic material that is used is both stronger and less dense than steel. As a result, ceramics will last longer and not wear as fast as standard steel bearings. In addition, the ceramic balls used in ceramic bearings are harder than traditional steel, allowing for less deformation under a load, less friction and as a result, a much freer rolling bearing. In conclusion, initially the ceramic bearings cost a bit more than standard steel bearings, however, a ceramic bearing will last longer and outperform traditional steel bearings.
Seat
1. How tight do you tighten the seat bolts?
This question can generate many opinions but we here at PRC believe that seats should be tightened “securely and properly.” By that we mean that the supplied rubber grommets should be used in all points of attachment and the bolts should be tightened until the grommets are compressed 15-20%.
2. How do you check to see if the seat is in a bind?
An easy way to check bind in a seat is to remove the back two bolts which attach the seat to the rear seat struts. When you remove these bolts, if the seat moves drastically in one direction or another, the seat may have very well been in a bind. Adjust the seat struts or positioning of the seat to remove any bind.
3. How do you mount the seat without placing it in a bind?
When mounting a seat, it is very important to keep it from binding. The best approach is to first position the seat in the kart. Move the front portion of the seat until you have it located where you want it. Then, adjust the rear height of the seat up and down until it is roughly where you want it to be set. Next, mark the front of the seat and drill it. Place the seat in position and using the supplied rubber grommets and hardware, attach the front of the seat to the seat slides. Next, without pulling or pushing the seat in any one direction, mark and drill the back of the seat. Using the rubber grommets and hardware again, attach the back of the seat to the rear seat struts.
4. Should you ever mount the seat with a preload to induce chassis flex?
We do not recommend ever mounting the seat with a preload of any kind. Your chassis has been designed to flex without any sort of preload, so in doing so, you will only hinder the way the chassis has been designed to transfer weight.
5. Should I replace my seat if it is cracked?
The seat is a very important factor in a chassis. If the seat is cracked, it will transfer weight differently than it did before it cracked because it now flexes differently. In addition, if the seat is cracked, it will not allow the chassis to transfer weight consistently from run to run. It’s a good idea to always replace the seat if it is cracked or damaged.
Bodywork
1. How much wheel clearance is needed?
Obviously, you do not want your tires to touch or rub on any portion of the bodywork. Rubbing on the bodywork will cause the tire to wear excessively and can even cause the tire to be cut down. Be sure that tires are not going to rub the bodywork after it has been mounted. In terms of the wheel well openings, you will want these openings to be big enough to get the tires in and out easily. There is nothing worse than trying to force a tire through a wheel well opening that has not been cut big enough. Our new SS 2.0 bodywork has already been clearance with a rolled edge.
2. Do you mount the three-piece body as a unit or in individual pieces?
Everyone seems to have a preference when it comes to mounting a body kit. We recommend mounting each piece, one at a time on the chassis. For instance, assembly your chassis completely, even mounting wheels and tires on the kart. Place the chassis on a flat surface and start with the nose. Use the side panels to help in adjusting the nose cone front to back and side to side. Once you have the nose cone positioned and mounted, choose either the left or right side and continue to mount them. Finally, mount the other side panel and you are finished.
3. How tight should the body be bolted?
The bolts that connect the side panels to the nose cone should be fairly tight and secure. If they are left loose, the bodywork will be able to move and eventually will damage both the side panels and the nose. Be sure not to overtighten them, however, as it may crack or damage the fiberglass by overtightening.
4. What is the advantage to running the rear floor pan?
The rear floor pan helps the aerodynamics of the chassis. It allows the air to flow evenly underneath the chassis, instead of being caught on various parts of the chassis. In addition, the rear scoop helps to remove the air from underneath the chassis, thus creating more downforce.
5. Do the quarter-turn Dzus fasteners hold up?
The quarter-turn fasteners have worked very well for securing the body to the chassis. We have had no problems in terms of them keeping the body in place or keeping the body tight.
Pedals
1. Are there any parts that I can buy for my chassis to help my child reach the pedals more easily?
Yes, we offer several parts to help small children not only fit in their chassis, but be comfortable in their kart. The first thing we offer is what we call Reverse Pedals (Part No. 1125101R & 1125100R.) HYPERLINK TO THE PEDALS These pedals are identical to the standard pedal, except, they have been bent in the opposite direction so that the pedal angles towards the driver and not towards the nose of the chassis. We also offer a wide variety of sizes for our throttle and brake rods. These rods come in various sizes which allow you to move the pedals towards or away from the driver depending on their size.
2. Can I mount the new style throttle assembly onto an older chassis?
The new style throttle mount that mounts onto the floor pan, can be used on older chassis. You will simply have to purchase the new style assembly (Part No. 1125139) HYPERLINK TO THE ASSEMBLY and mount it to your existing chassis. You may also need to purchase a longer throttle cable and housing depending on where you mount the new assembly.
Maintenance Questions
General
1. How often should I replace my spindles?
Your spindles are an extremely important component in determining how your chassis will perform. The spindles are the main link between how your chassis transfers weight and how that transfer directly influences the tires. As spindles become worn, they will begin to lose their rigidity and even become bent. As a result, a damaged or worn-out spindle can hinder your kart’s performance severely. We recommend replacing your spindles periodically throughout the year, every 25-30 races (One race=one 20-lap feature, including practice and qualifying/heats).
2. Does a chassis flex out?
It is very rare for a chassis to actually “flex out.” Many times people will think that their chassis is flexed out because it has stopped reacting to the changes their making or the changes they are making have less of an impact on the chassis as they once had. If this is the situation, your chassis is most likely NOT flexed out. Instead, some of your components may very well be worn out and need to be replaced. The components on your chassis such as the rear axle, front spindles, kingpin bolts, etc. all take a lot of abuse and will wear out over time. As these parts become worn, they will affect the way your chassis performs. It is a good idea to inspect these parts as part of your weekly maintenance and replace them periodically throughout the year.
3. When I bend a nerf bar, do I straighten it, or replace it?
Whenever you bend or break a part, we recommend always replacing the part and never attempting to fix, straighten, or repair the part. After a part has been damaged, it will lose some of its integrity and become weak. Even after it’s repaired, it will not perform as well as it once had, plus, it will bend or break much easier from that point on. We highly recommend always replacing any bent, broken, or damaged parts not only because of performance, but because of safety as well.
Bearings
1. How do I maintain my rear bearings?
Rear bearings are sealed to keep excess dirt and debris out of the bearing. You should remove the inner rubber seals and clean the bearings on a regular basis. This is highly recommended to keep the dirt and debris out of the bearing and increase the life of the bearing. The exterior metal shield will become deformed after removing and should be discarded.
2. What type of oil should I use in my bearings?
We highly recommend using the PRC Performance Bearing oil in all of your bearings. This oil has been developed specifically for use on the types of bearings that we are all using in our chassis. This oil will help to keep the bearings clean, free rolling, and will help to extend the life of the bearing.
3. Should I clean my bearings with carburetor or brake cleaner?
Both brake cleaner and carburetor cleaner are very abrasive and harsh cleaning fluids. We strongly recommend not using either of these products to clean your front or rear bearings. Using harsh chemicals such as carburetor or brake cleaner on the bearings may cause them to fail prematurely. In addition, the harsh chemicals will damage the seals, which are used to help prevent the bearings from getting contaminated from dirt, sand, and other substances that can cause them to eventually fail.
4. Is WD-40 or Tri-Flow good for lubricating my bearings?
WD-40 and Tri-Flow are not the best products to use when lubricating your bearings. Both of these products are quality products but are not designed to lubricate the type of rear bearings that we use in our chassis. Generally, light weight oil is the best lubrication to use on your rear and front bearings. We do offer 2- and 8-ounce bottles of our own PRC Performance Bearing Oil specifically designed for use on these types of bearings.
5. My bearings are starting to make noise. What should I do?
If your bearings are beginning to make noise, then they may need to be replaced. First clean the bearings and lubricate them well. Sometimes when the bearings become dirty, they will make some noise – usually a grinding sound. If, after you clean and lube them, they continue to make noise, the bearings and the inner race may be worn excessively and should be replaced.
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Paint
1. What type of paint is my PRC Chassis painted with?
Your Phantom Racing Chassis has been cleaned, sandblasted, and powder coated to ensure a strong and durable finish. This powder coat should last much longer than traditional automotive paint with proper care.
2. What do I clean my frame with?
To ensure that you extend the life of your chassis’ finish, we highly recommend not using harsh chemicals to clean your chassis such as brake or carburetor cleaner which will dull the finish and even shorten the life of the powder coat. We recommend not using high-pressure water on your chassis. A mild detergent and low-pressure water will work perfectly for cleaning your chassis. A coat of wax is a good idea to preserve the finish and ease cleaning.
3. I want to repaint my chassis. Should I sandblast my chassis?
If you choose to have your chassis repainted, we recommend discussing the procedure with the person who is going to powder coat or paint your chassis. They will be able to recommend the best process of preparation.
Performance Questions
1. My kart is driving well but my lap times are slow… what’s wrong?
If the chassis feels as though it is driving very well and your lap times are slow, it may be due to a lack of bite. Many times drivers will get the feeling that their chassis is perfectly balanced and yet, their lap times are off of what they should be. If this is the case, your chassis may need more overall bite. This can be accomplished in various ways including tires, right side weight, and possibly even air pressure.
2. Should I scale my chassis with my helmet on or not on?
In terms of scaling your chassis, the key is to be consistent every time. Some people prefer to scale fully outfitted in their gear, others choose not to. Either way is appropriate but as we said, the key is doing the same thing every time you scale.
3. What is the difference between the No Cross, Standard, and X-Factor spindles?
The three spindles listed above only differ in terms of the amount of crossweight in your chassis. There is no performance advantage or disadvantage to running any one of these spindles over the rest. The X-Factor Spindle increases the amount of crossweight in the chassis when installed. If you choose to run higher cross, for example 62%+, you may want to run the X-Factor spindle. If you choose to run lower crossweight, possibly for an indoor event, etc., consider the No Cross Spindle as this will reduce the amount of crossweight in the chassis when installed. **Newer style standard spindles (1111007L&R) are all X-Factor**
4. My chassis has always been fast but recently it seems “dead.” Even when I make changes the kart doesn’t seem to react.
There could be several problems with your chassis if it has slowed recently and become less reactive to changes. If you have been in a wreck recently of any kind, you should inspect the chassis to ensure nothing is bent or damaged. Inspect the seat for cracks or damage - this will also hinder how the chassis works. If you have inspected everything and nothing seems to be damaged, you may need to start replacing some of the key elements on your chassis. These parts include the rear axle, front spindles, and kingpins. As these parts become worn, they will affect the way the chassis works. If these parts are extremely worn, they will make the chassis feel as though it is “dead” or “flat.” These parts should be replaced periodically throughout the year, depending on how often you race your chassis.